The Approach Trek / Route Information:

Earlier the village of Jagatsukh, just 6 kms from Manali on the left bank of the Beas River, used to be the road head for the trek to the base camp. Now, however, since the construction of the 200 MW Allain Duhangan hydro-electric project, one can drive right up the restricted approach road to Khanol (depending on the procurement of a permit for using the approach road from the AD hydro authorities). From here, it is a 3-day approach walk along the Duhangan Nallah to the base camp for the Deo Tibba climb, which is usually pitched at Tainta (4070 M) or, at the glacial tarn of Chotta Chandratal, a little higher up. After the base camp at Tainta / Chotta Chandratal (where a stay of 2 – 4 days is required for acclimatization, plus load ferry of equipment and rations up to camp-1), the climb to Camp-1 commences. Camp –1 is located at either Dhuangan Col (Dhuangan Pass), after ascending up a steep slope of between 45 and 55 degrees for around 300 meters, or, a little ahead after traversing the Deo Tibba Glacier. The glacier has to be negotiated with care as there a number of crevasses here. Also, the climb up the slope to the Col is mixed on snow, rock and ice to cover this portion of the climb safely; ropes will be fixed for most of this section. Snow and Ice Craft training on the slopes of Jagatsukh peak, before the main climb. After reaching the Duangan Col (5200 M), Camp -1 is set at the Col, or a little further on at the base of a rugged ridge known as the Pitton Ridge. The Col is generally preferred but this depends primarily on the prevailing conditions, at the time of pitching camp. After acclimatizing for 1 to 2 days at Camp – 1, during which the Instructors, high-altitude porters (HAP) and climbers will also make 2 – 3 load ferry trips up to Camp –2, the climbing party will move across the Col to establish Camp-2 at the foot of the actual peak at an altitude of around 5400M. This is at the base of the southeast gully. This portion of the climb also involves glacier travel and due care has to be exercised. After proper acclimatization at Camp-2, many climbers make a direct ascent from this high camp to the summit of the mountain via the Pitton Ridge, which faces east. The ridge is quite steep with a few ‘Technical’ sections and also requires fixed rope for safe travel for around 150 meters. An alternative route, involves ascending up a snow gully to the South East of the Pitton ridge. This route (which we will be using), also involves mixed climbing on snow and ice and again a fixed rope is required for around 250 meters of the route, to render the climb safe for all the climbers. Usually in ending May or the start of June and then again in September, the snow and ice conditions on this section of the climb are nice and stable. This makes negotiating the gully a challenging & highly satisfying alpinism experience. Soon after ascending up the fixed rope through the gully, the climbers move onto a vast snowfield. From this point on Mt. Deo Tibba and its neighbor, the majestic looking sheer peak of Indrasan, are visible throughout the climb. For fit & acclimatized climbers moving at a good pace, it is only an additional one and a half to two hours from this point onwards, following the left side of the upper glacier, up to the summit of the mountain. The summit of Deo Tibba is a giant snow dome and therefore it is a relatively easy final ascent to the peak with a few crevasses to negotiate. Just before the summit, the slope becomes steeper to around 50 degrees gradient, after which it is an easy walk to the top. The summit itself is quite a wide expanse able to accommodate a complete football team (leave alone all climbers). And the view from the top, on a clear day…is truly breathtaking & guaranteed to exceed all your expectations.